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Post by jimdkc on Jun 9, 2020 9:50:58 GMT -6
What is the pump for? Recirculating? It pumps from the bottom of the tank up to the top to naturally filter out some of the flour, etc? Am I envisioning that right? Correct.
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Post by Ken on Jun 9, 2020 9:54:55 GMT -6
What is the pump for? Recirculating? It pumps from the bottom of the tank up to the top to naturally filter out some of the flour, etc? Am I envisioning that right? Correct. Thanks. The picture is coming alive now. So what about the venting part? For those who use one of these all-in-ones, do you boil in the kitchen with your range fan turned on or do you bring the thing out to the garage or else you have a dedicated vent in the basement?? Zymot: I did not mean to hijack this thread. I hoped that if I asked some questions that I had then the topic would be cracked wide open. You may go with a DIY electric rig and I know that Drez would be a big help there. If I went this way it would be an all-in-one jobbie.
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Post by jimdkc on Jun 9, 2020 10:04:17 GMT -6
So far my electric brewing has been in my basement with either the Pico C (1.32 Gallons) or the induction burner (2 Gallons + short boil). I haven't really needed external venting with them. That might change with the Anvil Foundry (2.5-3.0 Gallons).
I may have to figure out how to vent from the basement or move my brewing into the garage.
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Post by Seven on Jun 9, 2020 10:07:34 GMT -6
Question to electric brewers out there. How do you deal with a IM chiller and the heating element? An electric boil kettle has to have the heating element in direct contact with the wort. When you use a water heater element, is sticks out into the wort, a Blichmann boil coil has a coil concentric with the kettle. My concern is the IM banging into the heating element. I believe the elements are under the bottom on the "pot" in the Anvil unit anyway, so no need to worry about banging the element (that sounds dirty). The Anvil also comes with its own SS immersion chiller so I imagine it's perfectly sized.
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Post by jimdkc on Jun 9, 2020 10:18:06 GMT -6
Yes on both counts: The Anvil has the heating elements under the kettle, and it includes a stainless immersion chiller.
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Post by drez on Jun 9, 2020 10:18:53 GMT -6
Question to electric brewers out there. How do you deal with a IM chiller and the heating element? An electric boil kettle has to have the heating element in direct contact with the wort. When you use a water heater element, is sticks out into the wort, a Blichmann boil coil has a coil concentric with the kettle. My concern is the IM banging into the heating element. I use a CFC now but before I had just put my IM on the element and had no issues. I also made spacer out of copper pipe to allow the chiller to sit above the element. Both worked fine. I do wirlpool so I was not worried about the chiller not in the wort all the way.
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Post by drez on Jun 9, 2020 10:20:43 GMT -6
Okay everyone... hang on to something heavy while I ask: Could someone brew LO beers with one of these setups? * ducks * Underletting will not work unless you pump the water to a vessel then pump it back in.
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Post by Ken on Jun 9, 2020 10:45:07 GMT -6
Okay everyone... hang on to something heavy while I ask: Could someone brew LO beers with one of these setups? * ducks * Underletting will not work unless you pump the water to a vessel then pump it back in. Thanks Drez. I probably need to watch those videos so I have a better picture of this. What goes in first... water or grains? Or is it your choice? I could see adding water and then yeast + sugar but then you have to add the grain which might defeat the purpose. I am not necessarily saying that it's LO or nothing but I have not given up on some of the LO processes and I would hate to go with one of these devices and paint myself into a corner where I simply can't do something. With my old-school system now... everything is doable if I'm willing to buy this or that or do whatever process needs to be done. If an all-in-one simply will not allow a process, that could be an issue.
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Post by drez on Jun 9, 2020 11:01:59 GMT -6
Underletting will not work unless you pump the water to a vessel then pump it back in. Thanks Drez. I probably need to watch those videos so I have a better picture of this. What goes in first... water or grains? Or is it your choice? I could see adding water and then yeast + sugar but then you have to add the grain which might defeat the purpose. I am not necessarily saying that it's LO or nothing but I have not given up on some of the LO processes and I would hate to go with one of these devices and paint myself into a corner where I simply can't do something. With my old-school system now... everything is doable if I'm willing to buy this or that or do whatever process needs to be done. If an all-in-one simply will not allow a process, that could be an issue. I assume water first to get to temp and then you dunk the grain in. You would still be able to do the YOS method because you just add that to the water.
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Post by Seven on Jun 9, 2020 11:54:10 GMT -6
The trifecta mix provides some O2 "protection", doesn't it? I've never used it nor underlet but I take some LODO steps at times.
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Post by Ken on Jun 9, 2020 12:23:48 GMT -6
Yes, the trifecta is supposed to be insurance against some of the weaker spots in your process. The trifecta mix has had its ppm changed over time and the swing has been substantial. I think it was 100ppm at first, then 50, then 25 and some went to 12.5. The issue is that leftover trifecta mix gives the beer a nasty fart-like character. Ask me how I know. I basically just kept lowering the dose until that character went away. I think I'd rather have slightly oxidized beer than FART beer.
For one of these all-in-one systems I think I would add filtered water, add yeast + sugar and wait and then add lactic acid, CaCl and/or CaSO4, the trifecta and then just add the grain however that's done (by lowering a mesh basket filled with milled grain into the tank that holds the water? I'm really behind on this) and hope for the best. If I thought I was getting more O2 than the trifecta could cover , I could always up the dosage on the trifecta to account for that.
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Post by jkor on Jun 9, 2020 13:54:46 GMT -6
When I was using a 5500W ripple element in my kettle I simply used some rigid copper pipe to create "feet" for the chiller coil that kept it off the element.
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Post by zymot on Jun 9, 2020 17:56:54 GMT -6
Zymot: I did not mean to hijack this thread. I hoped that if I asked some questions that I had then the topic would be cracked wide open. You may go with a DIY electric rig and I know that Drez would be a big help there. If I went this way it would be an all-in-one jobbie.
We are talking electric brewing. More info on the topic, that is what I am looking for.
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Post by Ken on Jun 9, 2020 18:33:09 GMT -6
Zymot: I did not mean to hijack this thread. I hoped that if I asked some questions that I had then the topic would be cracked wide open. You may go with a DIY electric rig and I know that Drez would be a big help there. If I went this way it would be an all-in-one jobbie.
We are talking electric brewing. More info on the topic, that is what I am looking for.
Agreed. I know Drez and Lefty get deep into this stuff and I also know that every piece of the puzzle is available to you and these guys probably know the cheapest place to get it as well. In the meantime I may be researching these Anvil-type products. Cheers.
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Post by zymot on Jun 9, 2020 22:54:58 GMT -6
I have been grinding over every combination if Blichmann Boil Coil products so I can use their new Brewcommander. Looks like the tower of power is obsolete.
The Brewcommander is pretty slick.
New kettle + Brewcommander. Existing kettle + new boil coil + brew commander.
The Anvil all in one feels like i am cheating, it is too easy. A kettle and BIAB lets me feel like i am really honestly brewing.
But the Anvil will let me do everything a 10G BIAB kettle set up can do. I do not know if a 15G BIAB gets me much more. I can brew more than 16# grain bill in 15G BIAB. But even that, I can get higher gravity wort out of a 10G system if I want.
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