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Post by jimdkc on Jun 14, 2020 16:43:20 GMT -6
pH meter. I got this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082DZBJFB/Seems like a good compromise between the cheap $10-15 ones and the $100+ ones. It seems to be a well-made device. I also got buffer powders to calibrate it and a bottle of electrode storage solution. First use: Measure my tap water: 9.63. My water report says 9.3-10.1, so the meter seems to be in the ballpark! And, yes! My city tap water pH is really that high! |
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Post by pkrone on Jun 14, 2020 17:37:44 GMT -6
Whoa. I thought my tap water was high at 8.8.
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Post by bklmt2000 on Jun 14, 2020 17:42:40 GMT -6
The tap water where I live (about 20 mi north of downtown Cincinnati) has a pH of 9.0 even.
I've found that food-grade lactic acid is probably the most important tool I have on hand for water adjustment. Without it, I'd hate to think how my beers would turn out.
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Post by Ken on Jun 14, 2020 17:58:11 GMT -6
The tap water where I live (about 20 mi north of downtown Cincinnati) has a pH of 9.0 even. I've found that food-grade lactic acid is probably the most important tool I have on hand for water adjustment. Without it, I'd hate to think how my beers would turn out. Agreed. The pH of my tap water is about 7.5 but my bicarb is 138ppm which (as I understand it) acts like a buffer which makes it trickier to lower your mash pH. You have to neutralize the bicarb and then lower the pH. Lactic acid and/or Acid malt is always in my brewhouse. |
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Post by Leftympfrmde on Jun 15, 2020 3:40:56 GMT -6
The tap water where I live (about 20 mi north of downtown Cincinnati) has a pH of 9.0 even. I've found that food-grade lactic acid is probably the most important tool I have on hand for water adjustment. Without it, I'd hate to think how my beers would turn out. The pH here is 7.8 with mid of the road bicarbonate levels. Everything else is in the realm of acceptance. Lactic acid is great thing to have in the toolbox, but I've fell victim of adding too much of it, and the beer suffers. Been really liking the beers with this method; as needed, put up to 3% of acidluated malt in the grist, and after adding minerals, put in lactic acid to get the pH down to where it needs to be. Never had an issue since. |
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Post by jimdkc on Jun 15, 2020 4:57:48 GMT -6
Been using acidulated malt to manage mash pH (kinda blindly without a meter!) I have some lactic acid on order to try out.
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Post by zymot on Jun 15, 2020 14:19:12 GMT -6
Agreed. The pH of my tap water is about 7.5 but my bicarb is 138ppm which (as I understand it) acts like a buffer which makes it trickier to lower your mash pH. You have to neutralize the bicarb and then lower the pH. Lactic acid and/or Acid malt is always in my brewhouse.
Have you tried boiling your water, then letting it cool overnight. After it cools, you will find some dusty stuff at the bottom. Siphon leaving the stuff at the bottom behind.
It is supposed to get rid of the alkaline pH raising stuff, leaving other stuff alone.
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Post by Ken on Jun 15, 2020 17:35:50 GMT -6
Agreed. The pH of my tap water is about 7.5 but my bicarb is 138ppm which (as I understand it) acts like a buffer which makes it trickier to lower your mash pH. You have to neutralize the bicarb and then lower the pH. Lactic acid and/or Acid malt is always in my brewhouse.
Have you tried boiling your water, then letting it cool overnight. After it cools, you will find some dusty stuff at the bottom. Siphon leaving the stuff at the bottom behind.
It is supposed to get rid of the alkaline pH raising stuff, leaving other stuff alone.
That sounds like a great time my brother but a smidge of lactic acid and I don't have to waste all that time or energy.  |
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