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Post by drez on Jun 17, 2020 7:08:32 GMT -6
Are you still getting that SS HERMS coil and if so how do you plan to incorporate that?
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Post by zymot on Jun 17, 2020 7:56:59 GMT -6
No plans for a HERMS coil right now. The HERMS coils was for back in the day (10 days ago) when I was on propane. Now that I am going electric, there are new choices to consider.
Going to start off as a basic BIAB, then look at incorporating a mashtun.
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Post by drez on Jun 17, 2020 7:57:35 GMT -6
OK. I was getting confused ... things are moving too fast for me
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Post by zymot on Jun 17, 2020 8:50:57 GMT -6
The HERMS was to go with my Igloo cooler mash tun to introduce heat and adjust temperature. A couple weeks ago, the wife declared she did not like fire and flames "too close" to the house. I told her I could use electricity instead. I described it as it would be like a big crockpot and a big electric kettle. She signed off with that. Couple that with I am making bank selling off some stuff on eBay, it all comes together. Reworking the brewing rig.
BIAB to start. Eventually working in a mash tun for no sparge brews. Finally adding HLT so I can batch sparge.
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Post by drez on Jun 17, 2020 8:56:51 GMT -6
I have a feeling once you go to a 2 vessel you will not miss sparging. I know I do not miss it.
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Post by zymot on Jun 17, 2020 14:56:14 GMT -6
I can go from BIAB to a no sparge set up very easily. I still have a my trusty Igloo cooler mash tun.
I will have to go no sparge when the grain bill exceeds my BIAB 10 G capacity.
If I want to batch or fly sparge, I need to come up with a source of sparge water to include with the process.
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Post by neddles on Jun 17, 2020 15:57:32 GMT -6
Sparging. Now there's a term you don't even hear much anymore.
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Post by drez on Jun 17, 2020 16:15:05 GMT -6
Sparging. Now there's a term you don't even hear much anymore. Truth. I think skipping the Sparge and doing a full volume mash has improved the quality of my beers.
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Post by zymot on Jun 17, 2020 18:38:08 GMT -6
Truth. I think skipping the Sparge and doing a full volume mash has improved the quality of my beers. So what is your procedure? Put all your water and all your grain in the mash tun at one time. Let the mash convert the grain to wort. When the mash is done, drain the wort off the grain into the boil kettle and boil away.
That is lest efficient mash method. The penalty is you have to buy more grain to make up for the lower efficiency. Which I am willing to do if it means better beer.
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Post by drez on Jun 17, 2020 19:44:21 GMT -6
Truth. I think skipping the Sparge and doing a full volume mash has improved the quality of my beers. So what is your procedure? Put all your water and all your grain in the mash tun at one time. Let the mash convert the grain to wort. When the mash is done, drain the wort off the grain into the boil kettle and boil away.
That is lest efficient mash method. The penalty is you have to buy more grain to make up for the lower efficiency. Which I am willing to do if it means better beer.
When using two vessels: Heat water in bk then underlet into the mlt that has the bag with the grain. Mash as normal, for me that is recirculation with my RIMS. After 60 minutes I pump over to the boil kettle. I also will do a straight BIAB in my boil kettle. I find the two vessel produces a "cleaner" wort and I like that for lagers. Both methods give me 70-72% and I am OK with that.
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Post by zymot on Jun 17, 2020 20:18:10 GMT -6
So you have two sources of heat. Boil kettle and RIMS. To start, I will have just one heat source, the electric element in my boil kettle. For a true BIAB, that is all you need.
Not sure about a recirculation strategy. Maybe heat water in the BK, pump into the MLT to start the mash. Then drain out of the MLT into the BK and pump out of the BK back into the MLT.
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Post by drez on Jun 18, 2020 5:30:45 GMT -6
So you have two sources of heat. Boil kettle and RIMS. To start, I will have just one heat source, the electric element in my boil kettle. For a true BIAB, that is all you need. Not sure about a recirculation strategy. Maybe heat water in the BK, pump into the MLT to start the mash. Then drain out of the MLT into the BK and pump out of the BK back into the MLT. I do have two. I do not need the second one but I have had it as part of my system for ever so I am going to use it.
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Post by buscotucky on Jun 19, 2020 6:45:29 GMT -6
My lhbs has one of these in stock...can't find much info/any reviews but it looks nice. The Anvil is a bit less expensive. One of these days I'm going to have a twitch & pull the trigger.
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Post by Seven on Jun 22, 2020 7:14:55 GMT -6
Jumped on the Anvil Foundry 10.5 gallon pre-sale yesterday through AIH. Anvil begins taking orders direct today. All places that sell these units can't discount them below the minimum advertised price but AIH offers rewards points so at least it feels like I'm getting something "free" out of it.
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Post by zymot on Jun 22, 2020 10:44:01 GMT -6
I am getting my 220 VAC GFCI installed in the next week or so.
Once that happens, I need to make a choice: Anvil 10 Gal Foundry or convert my current stuff to electric. I could buy an Anvil Foundry, sell my newly obsolete gear and come close to breaking even. The Anvil is pretty slick. It would free up a bunch of space for me. The logical choice is Anvil.
Still, I am leaning towards adding electric heat to my Spike Kettle and going electric BIAB, with that comes the option of a two vessel system. Got a request for a quote to weld on a TC flange to my Spike. If that does not pan out, I can go with a weldless TC flange from Brew Hardware.
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