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Post by tommymorris on Sept 5, 2021 8:07:24 GMT -6
Super smooth Vienna Lager brewday today. I got a beautiful, clear and dark amber wort from this grain bill. 45% Vienna, 30% Munich 2, 25% Pils plus 2 ounces of Carafa III added at the end of the mash. I have high hopes and expectations for this one. Looks great. On the other hand when I poured my BIL’s unfiltered honey into my CAP it turned super cloudy. Kinda nasty looking.
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Post by poptop on Sept 5, 2021 14:15:54 GMT -6
Ken, why end of mash for the Carafa and when you say that what does end mean time wise?
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Post by Ken on Sept 5, 2021 15:01:41 GMT -6
Ken, why end of mash for the Carafa and when you say that what does end mean time wise? Adding it later may bring more color than flavor and it won't futz with your mash pH. The dark grains could lower your mash pH more than you want. I add it after 60 minutes and just sprinkle it over the mash and recirc and run off.
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Post by poptop on Sept 7, 2021 6:11:38 GMT -6
Interesting. I like this process and intend on doing it
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Post by Ken on Sept 7, 2021 7:22:41 GMT -6
Interesting. I like this process and intend on doing it Yesterday I put my Mexican Dark Lager on tap and I had followed the same process on that one. The rest of the grist was pilsner, vienna, some flaked corn and I think there was a small amount of caramunich. I mashed all of that and at the end I added 2-3 ounces of carafa and then recirced and ran it off. This was the first beer where I did this and it came out really nice. This is an idea that Brewbama suggested so big ups to him. It means you have to mill your dark grain separately and hold it until the end of the mash. Cheers Brother.
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Post by poptop on Sept 7, 2021 9:51:57 GMT -6
Perhaps a few turns in a coffee grinder, just to save time and headache?
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Post by poptop on Sept 7, 2021 10:28:04 GMT -6
I'm noodling around with this for an interesting still on the light side change. Taking both the Carafa and Midnight Wheat and doing the last mash addition Ken mentioned. Any input is always appreciated. 1.049, 23 IBU and 15 SRM
5 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 46.5 % 5 lbs Pilsner (2 Row) Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 2 46.5 % 8.0 oz Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 3 4.7 % 2.0 oz Midnight Wheat (500.0 SRM) Grain 4 1.2 % 2.0 oz Carafa III (525.0 SRM) Grain 5 1.2 % 1.00 oz Cascade [4.50 %] - Boil 40.0 min Hop 6 16.4 IBUs -
1.00 oz Tettnang [2.60 %] - Boil 10.0 min Hop 7 3.9 IBUs -
1.00 oz Hallertauer Mittelfrueh [3.60 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 8 3.0 IBUs -
0.50 oz Cascade [4.50 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 0.0 min, 194.4 F Hop 9 0.0 IBUs -
0.50 oz Hallertauer Mittelfrueh [3.60 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 0.0 min, 194.4 F Hop 10 0.0 IBUs -
0.50 oz Tettnang [2.60 %] - Steep/Whirlpool 0.0 min, 194.4 F Hop 11 0.0 IBUs -
Slurry of Bayern
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Post by Ken on Sept 7, 2021 10:38:41 GMT -6
I don't see how it can hurt you. This process was in conjunction with a "simplification" routine that I started and lot of it came from Brewbama and also from the Gordon Strong book Brewing Better Beer. The part that I am digging the most is just getting the strike water to a pH of 5.5 prior to heating it. It's something that just makes everything else fall in line naturally... unless you add a lot of dark grain which could lower your mash pH so adding it later helps you get around that. The other key piece of this (and I batted this around on the AHA board recently) is that there is a sweet spot boil pH and also a sweet spot post-boil-getting-ready-to-pitch-yeast pH and... they're not necessarily the same pH!! So mashing in the mid-5s (at room temp which translates to around 5.3 at mash temp) and boiling at that same pH is good. But then with about 10 minutes left in the boil I am making an acid addition which helps the kettle finings work better and also gets the wort closer to a good pitch pH. I've been experimenting with this on the last 5-10 batches and some of those beers are in the pipeline and others I have already sampled. The results are encouraging.
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Post by shaggaroo on Sept 8, 2021 14:10:26 GMT -6
I don't see how it can hurt you. This process was in conjunction with a "simplification" routine that I started and lot of it came from Brewbama and also from the Gordon Strong book Brewing Better Beer. The part that I am digging the most is just getting the strike water to a pH of 5.5 prior to heating it. It's something that just makes everything else fall in line naturally... unless you add a lot of dark grain which could lower your mash pH so adding it later helps you get around that. The other key piece of this (and I batted this around on the AHA board recently) is that there is a sweet spot boil pH and also a sweet spot post-boil-getting-ready-to-pitch-yeast pH and... they're not necessarily the same pH!! So mashing in the mid-5s (at room temp which translates to around 5.3 at mash temp) and boiling at that same pH is good. But then with about 10 minutes left in the boil I am making an acid addition which helps the kettle finings work better and also gets the wort closer to a good pitch pH. I've been experimenting with this on the last 5-10 batches and some of those beers are in the pipeline and others I have already sampled. The results are encouraging. Ken, what are you bringing the boil kettle pH down to?
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Post by Ken on Sept 8, 2021 15:07:26 GMT -6
I don't see how it can hurt you. This process was in conjunction with a "simplification" routine that I started and lot of it came from Brewbama and also from the Gordon Strong book Brewing Better Beer. The part that I am digging the most is just getting the strike water to a pH of 5.5 prior to heating it. It's something that just makes everything else fall in line naturally... unless you add a lot of dark grain which could lower your mash pH so adding it later helps you get around that. The other key piece of this (and I batted this around on the AHA board recently) is that there is a sweet spot boil pH and also a sweet spot post-boil-getting-ready-to-pitch-yeast pH and... they're not necessarily the same pH!! So mashing in the mid-5s (at room temp which translates to around 5.3 at mash temp) and boiling at that same pH is good. But then with about 10 minutes left in the boil I am making an acid addition which helps the kettle finings work better and also gets the wort closer to a good pitch pH. I've been experimenting with this on the last 5-10 batches and some of those beers are in the pipeline and others I have already sampled. The results are encouraging. Ken, what are you bringing the boil kettle pH down to? Funny you ask. Over on AHA they're suggesting 5.0 to 5.1, give or take. I remember a few times having a pre-boil pH of something like 5.35 and adding 1, 1.5, 2 milliliters of acid with 10 minutes left in the boil and then taking a post boil pH and seeing something like 5.29. I'm not sure how that's possible although I was working with a dodgy pH meter for awhile there too. Maybe I'll check it again on my next batch and see where it falls. But in the low 5s is where they're shooting for the best pH for yeast health and performance and also for overall beer flavor. There is more work to do.
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Post by brewbama on Sept 8, 2021 19:29:40 GMT -6
…There is more work to do. There’s your problem. You’re making me sweat from all the work you’re doing. 😂 Just yankin your chain of course. I hope you get it just how you like it. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Post by shaggaroo on Sept 9, 2021 15:17:25 GMT -6
Ken, what are you bringing the boil kettle pH down to? Funny you ask. Over on AHA they're suggesting 5.0 to 5.1, give or take. I remember a few times having a pre-boil pH of something like 5.35 and adding 1, 1.5, 2 milliliters of acid with 10 minutes left in the boil and then taking a post boil pH and seeing something like 5.29. I'm not sure how that's possible although I was working with a dodgy pH meter for awhile there too. Maybe I'll check it again on my next batch and see where it falls. But in the low 5s is where they're shooting for the best pH for yeast health and performance and also for overall beer flavor. There is more work to do. so maybe I'll have to measure the boil kettle pH on my next batch... though, I'm thinking of using the Philly Sour yeast, so I think you drop the pH a little to begin with? or no... I know somebody here used it, was it Gusso?
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Post by gusso on Sept 9, 2021 17:20:29 GMT -6
Yeah, I used it but I didn't mess with the PH. In fact, I made that before even messing around with Bru'n Water. Still came out very good. I plan on using it again soon.
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Post by shaggaroo on Sept 10, 2021 15:04:16 GMT -6
Yeah, I used it but I didn't mess with the PH. In fact, I made that before even messing around with Bru'n Water. Still came out very good. I plan on using it again soon. This is good to know! Ordered some yesterday. I'm thinking something with raspberry puree... does ginger go with raspberry and would that be too weird?
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Post by gusso on Sept 10, 2021 16:52:32 GMT -6
One thing for my brew, I've heard debates about one pack vs two for a 5 gallon batch. Initially, I pitched one but I got impatient when it stalled at about 1.035-40 and pitched another. From what I hear, that's normal as it sours first then continues fermentation. Anyway maybe I was impatient but it worked out well. I'll closely follow my next one and decide whether or not to add a second sachet. I plan to add some grape juice concentrate to the next batch to emulate a local sour (wife's request).
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